PEEL DATA From June 1992 four models of Peels are available 3.6m (2.5sq.m.), 5.1m (5sq.m.), 5.1m (5sq.m.) reefing and 6.4m (7.5sq.m) reefing. The reefing models can be flown with the reefing system engaged or (by attaching the flying lines differently) as non reefing kites. The reefing system (filed for patent June 1992) works by causing the Peel canopy to assume a "corrugated" form as pull increases thereby reducing effective span. Working to reduce maximum pull by about 25% (currently), this system allows the use of a bigger kite with its greater pull at the edge. All models of Peels can be retrofitted with the reefing system. Peels can be tuned for different performance characteristics. We use a table of differences - see Table 1 to set up our Peels for racing. Differences are listed for the four bridles on each cell as first minus second third minus second and fourth minus third. Generally, first- second is the critical dimension. If this is too low the kite will exhibit worse luffing characteristics. Because the second bridle takes the greatest load, after extensive strong wind flying this bridle will stretch more than the others causing a gradual deterioration of flying characteristics. "Blue Printing" the bridles back to the table of differences will restore the lost performance. Also, because of unavoidable small differences in knot tying when the Peels are first bridled even "Blue Printing" a new Peel may improve its performance, but do some flying first to "settle the bridles in". Increasing third minus second and fourth minus third will assist high wind buggying/kitesailing but light wind buggying/kitesailing performance will suffer. This may seem to be the reverse of how it should be but is all to do with the previously mentioned "its no use having a kite that will go along way around the edge if when it gets there it hasn't enough pull left to get you moving!" Moving the bridle point back increases the apparent wind speed at which the onset of stall will occur. It also makes the kite much less pleasant to fly. Winning is what matters though and back bridling definitely improves light wind buggying performance. This situation poses a problem for buggy racing rule writing as the better answer to improved light wind performance is to use a bigger kite but there is a strong temptation to set kite area limits on buggy racing classes. The table of differences listed in Table 1 is our current best compromise. For those Peel fliers who have had unfortunate accidents (usually involving other people's Kevlar lines) which have cut their bridle lines, Tables 1 and 2 can be used to reconstruct all primary and cross bridles. The technique we usually use to fix a few cut bridles is to first match up the cut ends and mark back 75mm each way, tie in a 100mm length of similar diameter line and adjust the knots until the two marks are 150mm apart. From the beginning of 1992 Vlieger Op of Holland began manufacturing and distributing the 3.6 and 5.1m Peels under a sole franchise contract for Europe. All 6.4m Peels and the remainder of the world are supplied from New Zealand. LAUNCHING Basic launching techniques are assumed to be understood but we have developed a (relatively) safe strong wind launching system: Launch the kite at the edge of the wind facing outwards not upwards. Although this requires some experience from the launcher it does get the kite up safely without that arm wrenching rush as the kite heads for the top from a downwind launch. For launching by yourself from sand or grass surfaces, attach a short (say 100mm) peg permanently to each main line attachment point. Fix rubber bands to these pegs so that they are normally held up parallel to the mainline loops. For launching in all except very strong winds just stand the kite on its trailing edge restrained against the wind by these two pegs stuck into the ground. Pulling on the line handles will now release the pegs from the ground, launching the kite. This system was developed by Phillip McConnachie, Ashburton New Zealand. BRIDLE UNTANGLING It's a matter of experience and is surprisingly easy. I'm very sloppy about packing so generally have to untangle every time I bring a kite out. Lay the Peel out on the ground, hold one line tie loop in each hand and just do what looks logical. It always works. When packing away I don't braid the bridles, but some do, doesn't matter either way but the key is to avoid letting either line tie loop pass through any bridle lines - fold the kite up towards the face but separate the loops and settle them on the back (top skin of the kite).