Equipment

A.  Sewing Machines, Feet, Needles and Thread.

	Most machines will perform the basic job of sewing ripstop.  The 
	beginning kitemaker does not need to purchase a new(er) or special 
	machine just to make kites.  Most kitemakers, including many 
	professionals, use home models, and some use 10-20 year-old 
	machines to produce award-winning kites.

	You should be able to adjust both the top and bottom (bobbin) tension, 
	that is, top and bottom tension devices should be accessible, and you 
	should know how to adjust them.  If your dealer says "don't touch the 
	bobbin tension" or "you can't sew on ripstop with a home machine," 
	find a new dealer.  You probably will need to adjust one or both 
	tension devices for ripstop.

	If you are shopping for a new machine, take samples of all the 
	materials you use (ripstop, dacron reinforcements, webbing) to the 
	store for testing.

	The machine should do straight stitching and zigzag, and have a 
	reverse; anything else is a nice extra.  Some people like a triple 
	zigzag:  3 diagonal stitches to the right, 3 diagonal stiches to the 
	left, but you may find this stitch only on expensive machines.

	Keep in mind that with computerized machines you can change the 
	width of the zig zag stitch only by entering the new width, while on 
	mechanical machines you change the width by turning a dial, an 
	advantage if you do much detailed applique work.

	Ripstop is slippery, and there are a couple of feet which help move 
	multiple layers through the machine evenly.  The first is called a 
	walking foot, and it grips the fabric from above much the way feed 
	dogs on the bottom do.  It is an accessory foot for most machines, but 
	some Pfaff models have a built-in walking foot.

	The teflon foot is another accessory foot that works well with ripstop.

	Use 'universal' or 'regular point' needles -- needles for woven fabric.  
	Needles come in several sizes, usually labeled with both American 
	(9, 10, 11, 12, 14, 16) and European (65, 70, 80, 90, 100) sizes.  
	Size 80 (11 or 12 depending on brand) is a good choice for 3/4 oz
	ripstop; you might try a size smaller or larger if you're sewing on
	1/2 oz or 1-1/2 oz respectively.

	If you're sewing through heavier material, such as leading edge strips, 
	dacron reinforcements, or webbing, use a heavier needle.

	Ripstop dulls needles quickly, and dull needles can affect tension.  
	If you listen to the sound of the needle piercing the fabric, you'll
	soon recognize the 'dull needle' noise.  

	Most kitemakers use dressmakers' polyester thread when sewing 
	ripstop or tyvek; some use nylon thread, which is more difficult to 
	locate, or sailmakers' polyester thread (black and white only), 
	available from sail lofts and a few kite stores.  

B.  Cutting Tools and Surfaces

	Edges of ripstop fabrics need to be sealed by heat, hemmed, bound, or 
	enclosed in seams to prevent fraying.  If you will be hemming, 
	binding, or enclosing an edge, it isn't necessary to hot cut the 
	fabric:  you can cold cut, which is usually faster.  A good tool for
	cold cutting is the rotary cutter, which looks like a small pizza
	cutter, and is available at most fabric and quilting stores.  It can
	be used freehand or against a ruler or pattern piece, works best
	with straight lines.

	For hot cutting, woodburning tools or soldering irons are the usual 
	choices; buy the highest wattage you can afford for faster cutting.

	The preferred surface for hot cutting is glass.  Large pieces of glass 
	are expensive; check with glass dealers or building salvage yards for 
	used shower doors and windows.  Masonite and Formica are also used, 
	but be careful with very high wattage tools, as there can be a fine 
	line between cutting the fabric and heat sealing it to the surface.

	For cold cutting, the rotary cutter (looks like a pizza cutter) is
        the most popular tool; it's especially useful for straight lines.
        Special mats are available for use with rotary cutters to preserve
        the cutting edge.